Rowing Blazers: History and Modern Times
Rowing Blazers:
From Tradition to Trendsetter
How a flannel jacket worn on the misty banks of the Cam became one of British sport's most iconic garments — and how one brand brought it back to the world's runways.
Rowing blazers are having a moment — and that's largely thanks to, well, Rowing Blazers. Jack Carlson's brand reimagined these jackets within the context of modern streetwear, but this isn't the first time blazers have made their mark. Blazers go way back, much like the sport of rowing, and there's a compelling argument that the latter was instrumental in the origins of the former.
The History of Rowing Blazers
Let's take a trip back to the mid-1800s, where rowing blazers first emerged. Rowing clubs in England — composed mostly of university students — dressed to impress both on the water and off it. These rowers wanted something that set them apart, something bold. And so, the rowing blazer was born.
Early rowing blazers were worn during warm-ups and training sessions, made from warm materials like flannel and designed with a looser fit for comfort and ease of movement. Their practical purpose was to keep rowers warm before they hit the water. Over time, they moved from functional sportswear to symbols of club identity, worn more for ceremonial or social events than athletic ones.
The Oxford Blues boat crew, 1896 — blazers very much in evidence.
JamesGardinerCollection / FlickrThe first recorded instance of the word "blazer" being used to describe a jacket dates back to at least 1880. It was originally used to refer to the bright red flannel jackets worn by members of the Lady Margaret Boat Club — founded in 1825, the rowing team of St. John's College, Cambridge. These vivid red jackets were said to "blaze" with colour, which is how the term became attached to the jacket style itself.
Eventually, "blazer" evolved to describe any jacket with a bold, distinctive colour or pattern — not just the bright red of the original Lady Margaret crew.
At Oxford, only rowers who make the top boats are granted the traditional Dark Blue blazer. Those who row in the reserve crew — Isis — receive a navy blazer with white piping instead. The blazer as a hierarchical symbol of athletic achievement within a club remains as potent today as it was in the 19th century.
"They morphed into symbols of status, much like Letterman jackets in the US. You weren't just a rower; you were part of an elite group — or even an elite member of an elite group."
— On the cultural ascent of the rowing blazer
As their popularity grew, rowing blazers began influencing the broader fashion scene, slipping into what we now call "prep" style. What started as something specific to sport soon found its way beyond the boathouse, becoming a statement piece both on and off the water. Today, those bright colours and stripes still have their roots in rowing tradition — but their reach extends far beyond it.
The original "blazing" red jackets appear at Cambridge
First documented use in the English language
Jack Carlson reimagines the garment for a new era
The Birth of the Rowing Blazers Brand
Fast forward to 2017, and we meet Jack Carlson — a former coxswain at Cornell and later with the US National Team — with a passion for blending history and style. After publishing a successful compendium of the jackets — the aptly named Rowing Blazers (the book) — he launched the brand that now bears the same name.
As an Oxford archaeologist and writer, Carlson was drawn to storytelling as much as stitching. He aimed to do more than sell jackets: he wanted to tell a story — one that combined the classic charm of rowing and all its esoteric traditions with a genuinely contemporary aesthetic. "Archaeology is the study of material culture, including vintage clothing," Carlson has said, "and when I learned that the first blazers were made for rowers, I became fascinated with them."
Jack Carlson discusses the Rowing Blazers brand and its roots in rowing culture, in conversation with Highsnobiety.
The brand took off quickly, gaining recognition for its vibrant colours, playful patterns, and bold designs. Carlson married the traditions of rowing culture — heraldic devices, Latin mottos, unique colour combinations — with modern streetwear aesthetics. In effect, he was inviting everyone into the clubhouse (and he actually did just that, launching a pop-up RB clubhouse in Manhattan).
People were drawn not just to the style but to the story behind it. The approach resonated with rowers and non-rowers alike, making the brand a bridge between two worlds: pride in rowing culture and a nod to prep fashion, all while appealing to anyone who loved a good dose of personality in their clothing.
Jack Carlson publishes Rowing Blazers — a photographic compendium of club blazers from around the world, published by Vendome Press and Thames & Hudson in a global partnership with Ralph Lauren, who discovered the project through a pre-publication copy.
The Rowing Blazers brand officially launches, bringing bold colours, playful patterns, and whimsical details — heraldic motifs, Latin mottos, unique embroidery — to a new generation.
Rowing Blazers appears in a Saturday Night Live digital short. The brand's celebrity clientele grows to include Timothée Chalamet, Pete Davidson, Gwyneth Paltrow, Justin and Hailey Bieber, BTS, Mindy Kaling, Dwyane Wade, and Russell Westbrook.
Rowing Blazers launches a dedicated line at Target. Collaborations by this point span Ralph Lauren, FILA, Seiko, Tudor, TAG Heuer, Gucci, Barbour, Noah, J.Crew, Tracksmith, the NBA, Babar, Paddington Bear, the Grateful Dead, and the New York Yankees — among many others.
Carlson sells a majority stake in Rowing Blazers to Burch Creative Capital, the investment firm co-founded by Chris Burch. He continues as creative director for approximately a year before fully exiting the brand in March 2025.
Carlson is named president and creative director of J. Press, the 120-year-old Ivy League institution founded at Yale in 1902. His debut collection — shown at New York Fashion Week in the brand's first-ever appearance on the CFDA calendar — draws strong reviews.
Rowing Blazers in Modern Fashion
Carlson's vision transformed the rowing blazer from a piece of sportswear into a genuine fashion staple. The key is in the blend of tradition and innovation. While the classic blazer often sticks to subdued colours and conservative styles, Rowing Blazers shook things up with bold patterns and vibrant hues. You might see someone wearing one with jeans and sneakers, turning a piece that once signified exclusivity into everyday wear — and it's that versatility that caught the attention of style-savvy people everywhere.
Wearing a Rowing Blazer, as the brand puts it, feels like being part of a special club — even if you've never set foot in a boat. The brand often shares stories of rowers, clubs, and the culture surrounding the sport, fostering a sense of community that extends well beyond its garments. GQ described it as "the brand that's saving prep by kicking down its walls;" Men's Journal called it "classic British and Ivy League iconography with a post-modern, punk twist."
"When I started the brand, people thought 'preppy' meant stuffy, static, elitist. Old, dead, white clothes basically."
— Jack Carlson, Rowing Blazers founder
After selling a majority stake to Burch Creative Capital in early 2024 and stepping away from Rowing Blazers entirely in March 2025, Carlson's next move proved a natural fit. In September 2025, he was named president and creative director of J. Press — the 120-year-old menswear institution synonymous with Ivy League style — marking the brand's first-ever appearance at New York Fashion Week.
"I used to go to the shop in Harvard Square, and many of the first suits, shirts, ties and belts I bought for myself were J. Press," Carlson said of the appointment. "This role feels like coming home." His debut collection — featuring a red tailcoat, a Tyrolean Janker, and accessories handcrafted from vintage felt college pennants nearly a century old — was a colourful statement about the enduring appeal of American prep. He has also restored several of J. Press's original design hallmarks: patch pockets, old-school collar rolls on Oxford-cloth button-downs, and the brand's vintage red-on-white label.
Rowing Blazers continues under Burch Creative Capital, which also holds stakes in Tory Burch and Staud. A revised and expanded edition of Carlson's original Rowing Blazers book was published in 2024. Meanwhile, Carlson is also working on a new book focused on the history and cultural significance of the rugby shirt.
How to Wear a Rowing Blazer Today
Whether you earned yours at Henley or simply fell for the history, the rowing blazer is one of the more versatile garments in any wardrobe. Here are a few starting points.
Tailored chinos or khakis, a crisp white shirt or striped button-down, and loafers or boat shoes. Roll the sleeves for a laid-back finish that still reads polished.
A rowing blazer's strong palette can handle pattern mixing. Try solid trousers or a subtle plaid, with a polo underneath to balance the statement.
A lightweight sweater or turtleneck adds warmth and depth. Dark jeans or tailored trousers, a complementary scarf — ideal for cooler mornings on and off the water.
Dark wash jeans give a smart-casual feel; distressed denim is more relaxed. A graphic tee or casual button-up, sneakers or boots — let the blazer do the work.
A classic watch, a woven belt, fun socks, a pocket square in a complementary colour. Keep it cohesive — the blazer already has plenty to say.
A rowing blazer isn't reserved for formal occasions. Joggers or shorts in warmer months with a basic tee work fine. It's a versatile garment — treat it as one.
